Marc Jacobs: The Godfather of American Fashion

He is regarded as one of the most influential figures in the fashion industry and the godfather of American fashion. With a career spanning decades in one of the world's oldest fashion houses and collaborations with renowned contemporary artists, Marc Jacobs has never shied away from experimentation and reinventing the seemingly conventional. Despite claiming not to follow global trends, he has an unparalleled knack for capturing their fleeting changes ahead of others.

"I don't believe in the dictatorship of fashion, and I think anyone who follows it is utterly lost. I create style, not fashion," said Marc Jacobs.

More about the life and work of designer Marc Jacobs was shared by stylist and fashion columnist Yegor Voronkin.

Marc Jacobs was born on April 9, 1963, in New York City. His childhood was far from idyllic; his father passed away when he was seven, and his mother's personal life took precedence over her son. She married three times, each time prompting the family to relocate. Marc disliked such instability, and during one vacation spent with his grandmother in Manhattan, he asked to stay with her permanently.

It was his grandmother who taught the future designer how to knit and nurtured his appreciation for fine things. Noticing his unusual and technical knitting patterns, she proudly told all her friends that he would someday become a world-famous designer.

The first models for future collections appeared in Marc's notebook while he was still attending a math school at the age of 15. Despite his mother's desire for him to become a lawyer, his grandmother supported his decision to apply to an arts school.

In 1978, Marc easily passed the design entrance exam at the High School of Art and Design. At the same time, he began working at the famous Charivari boutique and established connections in New York's social circles.

After graduating from design school in 1981, Marc decided to continue his education and enrolled at the legendary Parsons School of Design. Talented and ambitious, he immediately gained the admiration and recognition of both classmates and teachers, earning the title of "Student of the Year" in 1984. During his studies, Marc also met renowned designer Perry Ellis, who invited him to intern at his studio.

At the graduation ceremony, Jacobs met stylist Robert Duffy, and their warm friendship soon turned into a business partnership. That same year, they opened the Jacobs Duffy Designs studio, later registering the Marc Jacobs brand in 1986.

Simultaneously with their successful business ventures, Marc became the youngest recipient of the award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) for "Best New Designer."

His collections sparked a true revolution by integrating glamour aesthetics into the everyday style of ordinary Americans. Marc's designs were concise yet luxurious.

The most famous supermodels lined up outside Jacobs Duffy Designs, and the most expensive models of the 90s—Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, and Linda Evangelista—showcased his clothing at brand shows, accepting their fees in dresses.

In 1994, the designer successfully debuted at New York Fashion Week with the "Grunge" collection, which brought him wide popularity. It was also the year he launched his first men's collection.

After Perry Ellis's death that same year, Marc was invited to take over as creative director at Perry Ellis. One of the conditions for him to accept was Robert Duffy's appointment as CEO.

Believing in the success of Ellis's "godson," the board of directors approved both candidates without hesitation. From the first day of work, Jacobs caused a wave of protests both among fans of the fashion house and its employees, attempting to reinterpret the founder's legacy. Jacobs boldly integrated grunge motifs and almost cartoonish prints into Perry Ellis's concise and feminine cuts, which alienated the brand's fans. In his collections, he seemed to preserve the main features of the founder's design while also using complex color combinations and adding sensuality to almost business-like images.

The brand's audience did not appreciate such transformations, and Perry Ellis's sales began to decline. The leadership of Perry Ellis decided to dismiss Marc and Robert. The pair left New York and went on vacation to Italy, where Marc fortuitously met Bernard Arnault, owner of LVMH.

After several joint evenings, Arnault was so impressed with the young and ambitious Jacobs that, without much thought, he offered him the position of creative director at Louis Vuitton.

In 1997, Marc Jacobs officially started working as the brand's creative director and revolutionized one of France's oldest fashion houses. The following year, Louis Vuitton began producing clothing, shoes, accessories, and jewelry, something it had never done before. Marc also came up with the idea of ​​transferring the brand's famous logo not only to bags but also to fabrics, revolutionizing the world of logomania.

Under Jacobs's leadership, Louis Vuitton also produced four iconic collaborations between the worlds of art and fashion, namely joint works with Takashi Murakami, Richard Prince, Stephen Sprouse, and Yayoi Kusama.

During his tenure at LVMH, Marc was awarded the CFDA Fashion Designer of the Year five times for women's clothing, as well as the Best Men's Clothing and Accessories Designer awards. In 2011, he received the Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award.

While working at LVMH, Jacobs continued to develop his own brand, securing support and investment potential from Bernard Arnault. By 2006, over 60 Marc Jacobs boutiques had been opened worldwide. The Marc by Marc Jacobs line of democratic clothing and children's clothing was also launched. In June 2013, Marc Jacobs launched Marc Jacobs Beauty decorative cosmetics.

In winter 2014, after presenting a new collection for Louis Vuitton, Jacobs announced the end of his relationship with the brand. Over the next few months, he received dozens of collaboration offers from many brands, including Dior. However, the designer refused to continue leading other companies, realizing that he was working to his detriment.

In 2015, Marc Jacobs faced a crisis in his company. His longtime business partner Robert Duffy left his post as executive director due to "different visions for the company's future." That same year, the brand discontinued the Marc by Marc Jacobs second line due to its unprofitability. Over the next few years, the company had to close more than half of its stores in Europe and America. At the beginning of 2018, Marc Jacobs' bankruptcy was discussed in fashion circles.

That same year, the controlling shareholder of LVMH confirmed that Baja East co-founder John Targon would join Marc Jacobs as creative director "to reach new consumer categories."

The crisis management team appointed by Arnault decided to radically change the brand's positioning and its interaction with consumers. In 2018, Jacobs completely re-released his 1992 grunge collection, created for Perry Ellis, along with footwear and accessories.

On August 26, 2019, Jacobs received the first MTV Fashion Trailblazer Award at the Video Music Awards ceremony in partnership with the Council of Fashion Designers of America.

In September 2020, the designer launched a new clothing line, The Marc Jacobs. The first collection, called Heaven, was gender-fluid, targeting a younger audience, and the collection's creator sought to blur gender boundaries and celebrate 90s underground culture.

The success of Heaven was overwhelming. For the first time in 5 years, Marc Jacobs' company achieved positive sales growth. In 2023, Marc Jacobs presented the Fall/Winter 2023 collection at the New York Public Library, showcasing nearly 30 looks in a three-minute TikTok video to fit the entire presentation.

Today, Jacobs continues to shock the public with his collections and unconventional silhouettes. He stays true to himself, creating simple things with complex cuts, glamorizing everyday American style. His Snapshot Bag and iconic The Tote Bag are perhaps the most popular models among Instagram influencers. He managed to change course in time and not drown Marc Jacobs in the sea of global fashion changes, once again confirming his title as a fashion trendsetter.