Journey into the Past: The Story of the Cult IT-Bag Hermès Kelly

In the world of fashion, trends change at lightning speed, but only a few "timeless" pieces manage to retain their relevance for decades. Among these wardrobe staples are It-bags—cult handbags that symbolize luxury, affluence, and high societal status. Regardless of country or continent, queues form for these accessories, coveted by fashionistas willing to splurge thousands of dollars.

One of the earliest It-bags that became a must-have for fashionistas and celebrities worldwide was the Hermès Kelly, named after Princess Grace Kelly of Monaco. Let's delve into the history of this iconic accessory in our series on timeless fashion items.

The Creation Story

The 1930s were pivotal for the Hermès brand when Robert Dumas, the son-in-law of founder Émile Hermès, joined the business. Under his influence, the brand introduced iconic creations such as silk scarves, the Chaîne d'Ancre bracelet, and the women's handbag Sac à Dépêches, later renamed Kelly.

During the creation of Sac à Dépêches, Robert drew inspiration from the larger Hermès Haut à Courroies model originally designed for carrying horse gear. He transformed it into a more compact and practical version suitable for daily use by women. He refined the design of the Kelly bag as we know it today, featuring a trapezoidal shape, single handle, and a strap closure. The new model stood out with sharper angles and a more elegant and refined appearance compared to its predecessors. Sac à Dépêches revolutionized the handbag industry, which until then had mostly featured miniature clutches.

Each Hermès Kelly bag was meticulously handcrafted by a single artisan over 18-25 hours, showcasing the brand's craftsmanship and attention to detail. It became the choice for official outings among influential political and cultural figures.

Grace Kelly's Role in Popularizing the Bag

Two decades after its debut, in the 1950s, Sac à Dépêches appeared in Alfred Hitchcock's film "To Catch a Thief." Costume designer Edith Head selected this model for the sophisticated wardrobe of the main character, Frances Stevens, played by Grace Kelly. The star was so enamored with the bag that she continued to carry it off-screen and famously used it to conceal her pregnancy. A photograph of her with the bag made the cover of Life magazine, sparking a surge in demand among fashion enthusiasts for the "Kelly bag." The brand officially renamed the model to Hermès Kelly in 1977.

The Design of Hermès Kelly

Over the years, the design of the bag has remained largely unchanged. In 2000, Hermès added a double ring to the handle to accommodate a longer shoulder strap. The Hermès Kelly bag is now available in two main styles: Sellier and Retourne. The Sellier version features rigid lines and is made from sturdy leather, while the Retourne style is more relaxed with softer, rounded edges. The leather used for these bags is more supple than that used in the Sellier models.

Current Popularity and Rarity

Hermès Kelly bags continue to be highly sought after due to the brand's practice of producing fewer bags than demanded, thereby increasing their exclusivity and price. The average cost of regular Hermès Kelly bags ranges around $15,000, while rarer models can fetch hundreds of thousands of dollars.